The splendid feelings between the flying needle, there is a kind of non -heritage embroidery that is worn on the body.

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Text/Zhang Xiao

飞针走线间的锦绣情怀,大理有一种非遗刺绣是穿在身上的温度

Speaking of non -heritage, everyone may feel far away from us. In fact, many non -heritage is in daily life, even wearing it on us. In Dali Heqing South, there is such a non -heritage -Diannan embroidery.

飞针走线间的锦绣情怀,大理有一种非遗刺绣是穿在身上的温度

In the south of Dadian, embroidery has been circulated in the majority of ethnic women. It is roughly divided into two categories, one is the use of children, and the other is graceful, luxurious, dignified and generous brides. Specifically, it also includes: practical shoes, hats, belts, handkerchiefs, etc.; Ornamental collar, hat flower, lotus bag, sleeve, etc.; Decorate religious supplies such as temple temples.

飞针走线间的锦绣情怀,大理有一种非遗刺绣是穿在身上的温度

The skill of the fingertips comes from the mother’s influence

Yang Wenhuan is a Bai woman in Huayong Village, Jintun Township, Heqing County. She has been influenced by her mother since she was a child. She started to learn embroidery with her mother at the age of 5. She has a soft spot for embroidery.

飞针走线间的锦绣情怀,大理有一种非遗刺绣是穿在身上的温度

Under the influence of the mother, Yang Wenhuan, who has special emotions on embroidery, can help the mother to do some simple embroidery processes when she is seven or eight years old. The whole set of traditional Bai clothing skills is quite famous in the local area.

飞针走线间的锦绣情怀,大理有一种非遗刺绣是穿在身上的温度

“When we were young, we had less entertainment and few toys. I liked to make some embroidery and cloth toys. As long as my mother had time to do needle -threading subsidies, I was affected by her and took some small broken cloth as small cloth people. Later, I started to start. Learning to make complex things. At the age of 17, he learned to make a whole set of traditional Bai clothing production with his mother. “Talking about his experience of embroidery, Yang Wenhuan said.

In 1976, Yang Wenhuan learned the embroidery technology of the whole set of southern bride. Later, he pondered himself to make the zodiac hat, rescued the prince hat, the archway hat, the purple gold crown, the gossip hat, the child picking the lotus hat and other boutique craftsmanship Essence

飞针走线间的锦绣情怀,大理有一种非遗刺绣是穿在身上的温度

The splendid feeling between the flying needle is the temperature that wears it on the body

飞针走线间的锦绣情怀,大理有一种非遗刺绣是穿在身上的温度

Yang Wenhuan’s clothing is loved by everyone. While pursuing art aesthetics, she insisted on taking the traditional route and strived for perfection.

In the production, regardless of the fabric, material, or craftsmanship, she has strict standards. She insists on embroidery with real silk embroidery threads.

飞针走线间的锦绣情怀,大理有一种非遗刺绣是穿在身上的温度

Yang Wenhuan has her own unique view of Diannan bride outfit. She believes that among the national costumes of Heqing, she should be the most beautiful in the napkin Nanbai bride. Diannan brides have strict grades according to the differences in clothing, accessories, and color and craftsmanship. They are particularly paid attention to matching during the wearable process and abide by their strict rules.

When the bride puts on the embroidered wedding dress, the lotus step is light, the figure is graceful, the shadow swaying, and the ring is Ding Dang. Such a scene reminds people of the court scene and the classical time of the far -the plate hat, the emerald earrings, embellishment The beautiful face of the women of the southern Bai ethnic group; the unique plate buckle entangled at the neckline set off the bride’s “collar” jade neck; black and red shoulders and coral beads, graceful and elegant; staggered sleeves stacked sleeves, stacked sleeves stacked sleeves In the middle, the hand is soft; the black waist is equipped with exquisite belt, and the left side is dotted with embroidered triangular square scarves; black pants and white socks; black feet with bundles tight ankles, wearing exquisite boat -shaped south embroidery shoes …

This is the most vivid scenery of Dadian, a gorgeous and gorgeous national cultural business card.

飞针走线间的锦绣情怀,大理有一种非遗刺绣是穿在身上的温度

Diannan Bai people wedding dress: originated from the court incorporate into the place

He Qingdian Nanbai brides have unique national characteristics and sophisticated workmanship. There are quite rhymes in the late Qing court costumes, bright colors, black and red basic tones, loose and generous style characteristics, showing the graceful, luxurious, dignified girlfriend’s state Essence

According to research, in the Qing Dynasty, most people from Heqing were officials in the court and business in Beijing. His family members brought palace clothing and the popular costumes on the city of Beijing to bring back to Heqing by chance. In this national costume, after a long period of dissolution, it has formed today’s Heqingdian Nanbai clothing.

飞针走线间的锦绣情怀,大理有一种非遗刺绣是穿在身上的温度

The whole set of southern southern brides, divided into hats, shirts, horses, shoes, shoes and other parts. The flower patterns and decorations on the clothing are hand -embroidered, with peony, phoenix and other patterns on the brim, shoulder, sleeve cover, and waist. Shoes are like boat types, also known as boat shoes, which will embroider exquisite patterns on the shoes.

飞针走线间的锦绣情怀,大理有一种非遗刺绣是穿在身上的温度

The bride is equipped with a wide robe and a large sleeve, large inlaid, with black, equipped with pink, pink blue, big red and emerald green, which is clear and stable, and it looks solemn and steady. The waist, pants, embroidered shoes and accessories are composed of, except for gown and shoes, the others are black.

The disc hat is generally made of golden velvet and lanterns, and the discs are made of iron or bamboo. On the left of the hat, there is a hat flower, which is stitched from gems, sequins and other skewers, also known as sunflower.

The gown has two colors: pink and light green, and there are dark flowers on it. There are sleeves on the gown, which is the most distinctive place in the bride. The sleeve is activity, which is a golden sleeve cover, which is usually nailed according to different statures when wearing it. The sleeves are about 25 cm long and about 20 cm wide. There are two layers. The outer layer is generally black hidden flower satin. The inner layer is more casual and plays a role in lining. There are patterns with gold and silver threads on the cuffs.

飞针走线间的锦绣情怀,大理有一种非遗刺绣是穿在身上的温度

“This kind of rich and rich is more than three, this kind of phoenix wears peony. This sleeve is more troublesome. It takes a long time to embroidered. At present, there are no embroidery in many places. Embroidered, the price is slightly more expensive, and a pair can sell for 16,000. “Yang Wenhuan held the cuffs that had been embroidered.

飞针走线间的锦绣情怀,大理有一种非遗刺绣是穿在身上的温度

Tuan Huaxan shoulders have the word “Shou” of Tuanfeng, the word “blessing”, and the “blessing” of the Tuanlong.

The upside and the left and right sides are straight lines, and there is a mild arc below, which is almost long and under knee. The red ribbon is on the left and right sides of the upper ends of the waist. At the end of the red ribbon, there are two double -layer cloth bands of about 80 cm long, and the end of the strap is made into a sharp triangle.

飞针走线间的锦绣情怀,大理有一种非遗刺绣是穿在身上的温度

The pants of the wedding dress are relatively casual. The trousers on both sides have trousers and are similar to the sleeve cover. They are also active. The flowers are embroidered, and the upper end is tied to the waist.

The entire wedding dress is also equipped with embroidered shoes. The embroidered shoes in the southern Dadian are also called help -pointed shoes. Most of them are pink or big red, left and right, and the shoe body is small, the embroidery has flowers, and a bee pattern is wrapped above the heel. The diamond -shaped shoes are very beautiful.

飞针走线间的锦绣情怀,大理有一种非遗刺绣是穿在身上的温度

“A complete wedding dress can be sold for 30,000 yuan, because the production process is relatively complicated, they are all handmade. Now many people have booked a wedding dress here.” When asked about the price of a wedding dress, Yang Wenhuan said.

Diannan brides can be said to have pursued the value of the value of many humanity. It is the “most heart -hearted gift” left by the parents of Dadian South. It is not just a set of clothes, but the most beautiful parents to their children. Blessings and endless concerns.

Technical heritage makes the fingertips more temperature

飞针走线间的锦绣情怀,大理有一种非遗刺绣是穿在身上的温度

Over the years, Yang Wenhuan has not given up her pursuit of art. The Diannan Bai wedding dress she made is very popular. Many people have come to customize, and people who come to study are also endless.

In the years of embroidery, Yang Wenhuan has also accepted many apprentices, some comes from Guangzhou, and some have come to learn from the local area. Yang Wenhuan said, “As long as they are here, I will teach them seriously regardless of the length of learning.”

飞针走线间的锦绣情怀,大理有一种非遗刺绣是穿在身上的温度

In Yang Wenhuan’s small courtyard, we saw Yang Wenhuan and her apprentices being created seriously.

“Teacher Yang and I have been studying embroidery for five years. The relationship with embroidery was in my junior high school. I saw the wedding dress I wore when I got married. Under Teacher Yang Wenhuan, Master taught me everything she knew without reservation. I think that inheritance must be passed on and inherited, Master taught me her knowledge, and I also have the responsibility to continue to inherit. Students from Yunnan Vocational College of Culture and Art. The school has an embroidery association. I will also set up a studio in the future to continue to inherit Dadian embroidery. “Yang Wenhuan’s apprentice Shida said.

In July 2012, Yang Wenhuan was awarded the inheritor of the intangible cultural heritage of Heqing County; in 2013, he was awarded the inheritor of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Dali Prefecture; He was awarded the Master of Folk Art in Dali Prefecture and won the title of “Top Ten Top Ten Talents” in Heqing County in the same year; in August 2016, he was awarded the title of “Master of Ethnic Folk Embroidery in Yunnan Province”.

飞针走线间的锦绣情怀,大理有一种非遗刺绣是穿在身上的温度

Clothing, the temperature wearing on the body is the progress of human civilization. It can be said that Diannan Bride is the most gorgeous treasure in Bai’s clothing. The gorgeous wedding dresses are Yang Wenhuan’s love for the embroidery of Dadian South, and the splendid feelings between the flying needle traversal, creating the spirit of Yang Wenhuan’s embroidered craftsman and the imprint of her own era.